Showing posts with label spices. Show all posts
Showing posts with label spices. Show all posts
Saturday, March 9, 2013
Cachet Lemon & Pepper
3.5oz (100g) bar
Ingredients: Cocoa mass, sugar, lemon granules (inulin, lemon extract, lemon zest), cocoa butter, butter oil, black pepper, soy lecithin
14g sugar/38g serving (36.8% by wt.)
Corporate Info: (copied from 2/23/13) Cachet is a subsidiary of Kim's Chocolates, a Belgian company founded in 1987 that makes bars and confections under the Cachet name as well as a line called KC Chocolatier. I'm not sure what the difference is in terms of branding, other than that Cachet is "available in supermarkets and at many confectioners," while KC Chocolatier is in "specialist chocolate shops, delicatessens, Duty Free shops and on board aeroplanes." Cachet offers a fairly large assortment (click through to see groupings), including a few sugar-free varieties, though I notice that no ingredients are listed on the site.
Today's Bar: Lemon & Pepper in 57% cacao, again one of Cachet's "fruit tablets." Contains the hated "granules."
Appearance: Plain old medium brown, slightly glossy.
Smell: Not strong. I get both lemon and pepper, which is nice, and a little mild chocolate.
Taste: Waxy chocolate, then lemon--not too candy-ish, but also not fresh-tasting or sour--then the crunch of a few granules, then the prickle of black pepper. I could've done without the granules, even for the texture they add, but there aren't many and the flavor they contribute is fine. I like the black pepper, a spice I don't find often in chocolate, which here is both distinctly perceivable and not too strong. The chocolate, while mild and sweet, is well balanced with the mild flavorings--greater sourness or bitterness or what have you would create a totally different flavor profile with this particular lemon and pepper, and in this bar it works.
Conclusion: Cachet Lemon & Pepper isn't the highest quality of anything, but it's provides a perfectly functional and mild version of an uncommon flavoring in chocolate.
at
3:01 PM
Labels:
59% and under,
Cachet,
citrus,
spices
Saturday, January 19, 2013
Trader Joe's Takes Flight: A Dark Chocolate Tasting Odyssey, Part II
Corporate
Info: (Altered
from 10/6/12) Quirky-gourmet grocery store Trader Joe's tends to be
hit or miss, with some products being regular purchases for years,
some becoming favorites and then disappearing from shelves, and some
straight up disappointing. I've had similarly mixed results with
their chocolate, but there's constant turnover, they contract with a
whole assortment of manufacturers, and they aim for reasonable price
points, so it's worth it to keep trying. There isn't much else to say
aside from a fun fact: The US's beloved Trader Joe's is owned by
Germany's ALDI, which operates discount supermarkets all over
Europe—and that explains why we saw packages of dried fruit and
nuts labeled Trader Joe's in an ALDI in Osnabrück.
Today's
Bar: An
assortment! This “Dark Chocolate Tasting Odyssey” is in the same
line as the bar with toffee, walnuts, and pecans and the caramel-filled bar with black sea salt, but it includes seven
separate and interesting bars! Two are 2oz versions of full-sized
products, the salted caramel bar I've already reviewed and a coconut
caramel one I still intend to review, so I won't cover them here.
Further, you can buy each of those separately, and I've seen both in
stores off-and-on for the last year, so you can probably find them if
you want them. In contrast, I've only seen this assortment once, so
I'm going to cover it in a two-part mega review rather than
stretching it out over five posts.
So
what, then, are today's bars? Every bar in the assortment is in 70%
cacao, and aside from the two caramel-filled ones discussed above,
all are regular chocolate with inclusions. Last week I looked at
coffee & cocoa nibs and chili & cinnamon; today is even more
interesting, with Almond
Ginger,
Orange
Hibiscus,
and Salt
& Pepper Potato Chip!
Trader
Joe's Dark Chocolate Chocolate Bar 70% Almond Ginger
2oz
(57g) bar
Ingredients:
Chocolate liquor, sugar, cocoa butter, soy lecithin, vanilla,
almonds, ginger, cane sugar, salt
18g
sugar/57g serving (31.6% by wt.)
Appearance:
Again,
plain, slightly purply chocolate, with raised almond pieces on the
back and flecks of white almond in cross-section.
Smell:
I get the ginger, actually, in the form of something spicy and
fragrant within the light, nutty chocolate.
Taste:
Saltier than I expected, with crunchy almond slivers and tiny bursts
of bright crystallized ginger. All three come in separately, so each
bite varies in terms of texture and flavor. The chocolate is still
reasonably bland, a little chalky, and sweet, but this bar is more
about the inclusions so it works out.
Conclusion:
Trader
Joe's Dark Chocolate Chocolate Bar 70% Almond Ginger has varied
flavor and texture within okay chocolate.
Trader
Joe's Dark Chocolate Chocolate Bar 70% Orange Hibiscus
2oz
(57g) bar
Ingredients:
Chocolate liquor, sugar, cocoa butter, soy lecithin, vanilla,
hibiscus powder, orange oil, tea: elderberry, apples, hibiscus,
rosehip, kiwi, strawberry, sunflower petals, rose, corn flower,
raspberry, passionfruit, natural flavors
18g
sugar/57g serving (31.6% by wt.)
Appearance:
Again,
plain, slightly purply chocolate.
Smell:
Cohesive but complex fruit, ranging from fragrant and perfumey to
sweet-tart.
Taste:
Hm. The chalkiness of the chocolate base doesn't work here, as it
contrasts poorly with the fruit flavor. Aside from that, very fruity
and sweet-tart, leaning toward sweet, with tiny crunches, probably
the hibiscus powder. I think I can taste the exotic spice of the
orange oil, and aside from that it very much reminds me of the sorts
of fruit teas that use hibiscus as a foundation, bright and tart and
layered. It also works well with the mild chocolate, though I do
think it could stand up to a darker, more sour-bitter-beany variety.
Unfortunately, the contrast with the texture is awfully weird, and
that's what gets to me in the end.
Conclusion:
Trader Joe's Dark Chocolate Chocolate Bar 70% Orange Hibiscus is
complexly fruity, with a chalkiness that contrasts oddly with the
flavoring.
Trader
Joe's Dark Chocolate Chocolate Bar 70% Salt & Pepper Potato Chip
2oz
(57g) bar
Ingredients:
Chocolate liquor, sugar, cocoa butter, soy lecithin, vanilla, organic
clarified butter, sea salt, potatoes, safflower and/or sunflower oil,
rice flour, black pepper, white pepper, yeast extract, garlic powder,
onion powder, citric acid, black pepper oil, jalapeño powder
18g
sugar/57g serving (31.6% by wt.)
Appearance:
Again, plain, slightly purply chocolate.
Smell:
Salty
and savory on top of light, nutty chocolate.
Taste:
Neat!
There's the crispy crunch of the potato chips, along with their
light, savory flavor (these are “salt and pepper” potato chips,
which also means other flavor punchers like yeast extract and garlic
and onion powders), a nice amount of salt and pepper...it actually
works really well. Again, this chocolate has some unpleasant
chalkiness, but it can be overlooked with this inclusion and the mild
flavor works much better than would something more “chocolatey,”
whose bitter and sour notes would probably contrast poorly and/or
overwhelm the savory notes.
Conclusion:
Trader
Joe's Dark Chocolate Chocolate Bar 70% Salt & Pepper Potato Chip
is surprisingly full of potato chips, and their texture and savory
flavor works well with the mild chocolate.
Saturday, January 12, 2013
Trader Joe's Takes Flight: A Dark Chocolate Tasting Odyssey, Part I
Corporate
Info: (Copied from 1/12/13) Quirky-gourmet grocery store Trader Joe's tends to be
hit or miss, with some products being regular purchases for years,
some becoming favorites and then disappearing from shelves, and some
straight up disappointing. I've had similarly mixed results with
their chocolate, but there's constant turnover, they contract with a
whole assortment of manufacturers, and they aim for reasonable price
points, so it's worth it to keep trying. There isn't much else to say
aside from a fun fact: The US's beloved Trader Joe's is owned by
Germany's ALDI, which operates discount supermarkets all over
Europe—and that explains why we saw packages of dried fruit and
nuts labeled Trader Joe's in an ALDI in Osnabrück.
Today's
Bar: An
assortment! This “Dark Chocolate Tasting Odyssey” is in the same
line as the bar with toffee, walnuts, and pecans and the caramel-filled bar with black sea salt, but it includes seven
separate and interesting bars! Two are 2oz versions of full-sized
products, the salted caramel bar I've already reviewed and a coconut
caramel one I still intend to review, so I won't cover them here.
Further, you can buy each of those separately, and I've seen both in
stores off-and-on for the last year, so you can probably find them if
you want them. In contrast, I've only seen this assortment once, so
I'm going to cover it in a two-part mega review rather than
stretching it out over five posts.
So
what, then, are today's bars? Every bar in the assortment is in 70%
cacao, and aside from the two caramel-filled ones discussed above,
all are regular chocolate with inclusions. Today I'm looking at
Coffee
& Cocoa Nib
and Chili
& Cinnamon.
Trader
Joe's Dark Chocolate Chocolate Bar 70% Coffee & Cocoa Nib
2oz
(57g) bar
Ingredients:
Chocolate liquor, sugar, cocoa butter, soy lecithin, vanilla, cocoa
nibs, coffee beans
17g
sugar/57g serving (29.8% by wt.)
Appearance:
Straight
brown, i.e. not reddish or orangey, and mostly matte. The back shows
a few small, raised pieces of what I'm guessing is cocoa nib.
Smell:
Sweet and nutty, with barely a hint of coffee.
Taste:
That's pretty good! The texture is more chalky than waxy, but with
the intriguing grit of coffee grounds and crushed cocoa nibs. Flavor
is sweet (note: I haven't been eating much sugar lately) and nutty,
not especially complex, with the fatty flavor of cocoa butter and and
a light, lingering coffee taste. More latte than espresso.
Conclusion:
Trader
Joe's Dark Chocolate Chocolate Bar 70% Coffee & Cocoa Nib offers
some grit for texture and a light, creamy coffee flavor.
Trader
Joe's Dark Chocolate Chocolate Bar 70% Chili & Cinnamon
2oz
(57g) bar
Ingredients:
Chocolate liquor, sugar, cocoa butter, soy lecithin, vanilla, ancho
chili powder, cinnamon, guajillo chili powder, cayenne pepper
18g
sugar/57g serving (31.6% by wt.)
Appearance:
As
with the coffee bar, the base used for this chocolate is a deeper,
more purply brown than the also-common reddish or orangey, and has
little gloss. The back surface is mottled with very small raised
bumps.
Smell:
Ooh,
I totally get both chili and cinnamon! Not strongly, but still.
Again, the chocolate is light and nutty.
Taste:
Again, a little chalky, with chew. Then I get the prickle of the
cayenne, a low level of the other chilis (I'm not sure I could tease
out the flavors), and finally a surprising amount of cinnamon
compared with other, similar bars I've tried. I don't know if they
used ground cinnamon or if it's just the chalkiness of the chocolate
itself, but overall it's a little too powdery for my taste. On the
other hand, it's still pretty neat to taste serious cinnamon flavor
in my chocolate, and along with the lasting heat of chili in the back
of my throat.
Conclusion:
Trader
Joe's Dark Chocolate Chocolate Bar 70% Chili & Cinnamon has
prickly, lingering heat, significant cinnamon flavor, and a texture
that's a bit too powdery for me.
Saturday, October 20, 2012
Trader Joe's Organic Stone Ground Salt & Pepper Dark Chocolate
-->
Appearance:
This actually has a slightly darker, redder undertone than last
week's 70% bar, despite being lower cacao (I think). Again, it's
glossy with a grainy cross-section, due to the stone-ground cacao and
sugar crystals.
2.6oz
(73.7g) in two discs
Ingredients:
I lost the label for this (it's a sticker on the back), but the Taza
product contains just organic cocoa beans, organic sugar, salt, and
pepper, and is 55% cacao.
Corporate
Info: (Copied from 10/6/12)
I've had very mixed results with Trader Joe's chocolate, enough that
I rarely review it. The quirky-gourmet company is hit or miss anyway,
with some products being regular purchases for years, some becoming
favorites and then disappearing from shelves, and some straight up
disappointing. There isn't much to say aside from a fun fact: The
US's beloved Trader Joe's is owned by Germany's ALDI, which operates
discount supermarkets all over Europe—and that explains why we saw
packages of dried fruit and nuts labeled Trader Joe's in an ALDI in
Osnabrück.
This
Bar: (Altered from 10/13/12)
Trader Joe's is known for offering store brand goods that are
possibly lower-cost, identical products made by a name brand
manufacturer and sold in very similar packaging that makes the
connection even more obvious. Today's stone-ground cacao discs look
mighty familiar, don't they? Well, they're as close as you can come
(without being 100% positive) to Taza's two-to-a-package,
spoke-scored, stone-ground Salt and Pepper Chocolate Mexicano, which
I actually haven't reviewed here, though I can't compare the
ingredients as I write this (see above). TJ's is only $3.99, while
Taza's is $4.50 on its website and $5-6 in stores around my city. I
don't have the Taza product here, but I can review TJ's discs alone.
So how are they?
Smell:
Rich, dark, and a little sweet,
with the black pepper adding a spiciness that doesn't stand out but
rather makes the chocolate smell more complex.
Taste:
Again, the texture is gritty,
reflecting both the cacao and the sugar. The first flavors that hit
me are salty-savory and sweet, not chocolatey, which is interesting.
The salt and pepper don't taste strongly salty or peppery but rather
contribute to an overall savory flavor, with the flavor-enhancing
properties of salt and the slow burn of pepper. The sweetness stands
out, probably because of the lower cacao content (I think) as well as
the separate sugar crystals, which makes it a little too sweet for me
but does provide a good counterpoint to the savoriness of the salt
and pepper. Personally I'd like to taste this spice blend in 70%
cacao, but it works if you like more sugar in your chocolate.
Conclusion:
Trader Joe's Organic Stone Ground Salt & Pepper Dark Chocolate is
sweet and savory, with the interestingly gritty texture of
stone-ground cacao.
at
12:00 AM
Labels:
59% and under,
organic,
salt,
spices,
Trader Joe's
Saturday, August 25, 2012
Madre Chocolate Pink Peppercorn & Smoked Salt Hawaiian Dark Chocolate
1.5oz
(43g) bar
Ingredients:
Hawaiian cacao beans, organic sugar, o. cocoa butter, Mexican whole
vanilla, Hawaiian pink peppercorn, Hawaiian mesquite smoked salt
Corporate
Info: (Copied from
8/11/12) Madre is basically brand new (circa early 2011), the
brainchild of a traveler working on social justice in Central America
and a botanist with a focus on food and medicinal plants. There's a
lot of passion behind everything written about the company: the
“About Us” page of their website, the focus on ecology and direct
contact with cacao farmers, the now-funded Kickstarter, and even
reviews by fans of their chocolate and their shop in Kailua. The
cacao is grown organically, some on the Big Island (in the only U.S.
state in which this is possible) and some in Central America, and
they make the chocolate bean-to-bar in Hawaii. Madre has already been
talked up in Saveur and, at greater length, by food personality Aida Mollenkamp after she visited the founders in Hawaii.
Madre
currently produces two lines of chocolate, one inspired by Latin
American cacao and flavorings and the other using Hawaiian cacao and
flavorings. All three of my bars come from the latter line and are
listed as “limited edition” because of the seasonality and
availability of some of the ingredients. As you might imagine, this
is not cheap chocolate: All bars are 1.5oz (half the size of most
common chocolate bars) and range from $6 to $10 each on the website,
and as my mother experienced, they may cost slightly more in stores.
The bars are sold all over Hawaii, but they look to be spreading quickly to high-end and specialty stores in the U.S. and abroad.
[Update 9/5: I forgot to change these scheduled posts to indicate that reader Emma has pointed out that the mold Madre uses is mass produced, and you can find it here. Now you know.]
[Update 9/5: I forgot to change these scheduled posts to indicate that reader Emma has pointed out that the mold Madre uses is mass produced, and you can find it here. Now you know.]
Today's
Bar: This is the one
recommended to me by reader Emma, pink peppercorn and smoked salt in
70% cacao.
Appearance:
Matte, slightly greyish brown
chocolate with flecks of dark pink peppercorn and small salt flakes
under the surface and on the back.
Smell:
When I opened the package, this emitted a powerful herby peppercorn
scent. Now, much later, close sniffing still finds pink peppercorn's
prickly, resiny odor.
Taste:
Texture is Madre's usual crunchy then smooth, with a strong, well
incorporated hit of pink peppercorn. There's nothing hot or spicy
here, just herbaceous and with minor support from occasional salt
crystals. Unlike some other pink peppercorn chocolate I've tried, this
contains such small pieces of the spice that I'm not getting the
papery rind caught in my teeth, just a hint of grit and a lot of
flavor. I don't taste a lot of smoke here, but it's not
missed...perhaps it just contributes to complexity.
Conclusion:
Madre Chocolate Pink Peppercorn
& Smoked Salt Hawaiian Dark Chocolate is a must-try for lovers of
pink peppercorn mixed with chocolate.
at
12:00 AM
Saturday, August 4, 2012
Green & Black's Maya Gold
3.5oz
(100g) bar
Ingredients:
Organic fair trade chocolate, oft. raw cane sugar, oft. cocoa butter,
soy lecithin, orange and spice flavor, oft. vanilla, o. whole milk
powder
18g
sugar/40g serving (45% by wt.)
Corporate
Info: Check
out this Brand Overview from March.
Today's
Bar:
Maya Gold is Green & Black's nod to “Mexican” or otherwise
“Central American”-themed chocolate flavorings. Often that's a
mix of hot chile and cinnamon, maybe pepper and/or vanilla; here it's
(according to the website) a non-hot combo of orange, cinnamon,
nutmeg, and vanilla, and they're claiming inspiration from the Maya
of southern Belize.
Appearance:
Green & Black's usual semi-glossy chocolate in a lightly scored
mold. Color is kind of flat looking, with a purplish undertone.
Smell:
Well-incorporated sweetness and light spice; the nutmeg stands out
along with what I'm guessing is orange oil rather than some other
orange extract.
Taste:
I've had Maya Gold before and liked it, as it conforms to Green &
Black's standard: Thoroughly flavored, balanced, not challenging.
Texture is thick and rich. Flavor is sweet (it's only 55% cacao) but
entirely appropriate to the chocolate here, as while it does have
bitter and sour tones, they're all curve, no edge. Similarly, the
spices are complex but blend entirely. Think of, say, a good oatmeal
cookie or pumpkin pie, which should taste redolent of autumnal spices
rather than separate cinnamon, nutmeg, ginger, clove, and so on—they
just have an aura of warmth that lingers pleasantly, in this case for
a rather long time. I do think the nutmeg is standing out and perhaps
the orange (we're not talking citrus here, but rather heady, aromatic
orange oil), whereas I don't get a lot of cinnamon, and to my taste
buds vanilla is more backup than headliner. So some flavors are
louder than others, but they harmonize well.
Conclusion:
Green
& Black's Maya Gold isn't challenging, but as an everyday
flavored chocolate its spice and balance excels.
at
12:00 AM
Saturday, April 28, 2012
Madécasse Exotic Pepper
2.64oz
(75g) bar
Ingredients:
Cocoa beans, sugar, cocoa butter, soy lecithin, vanilla, tsiperifery
pepper, pink pepper, black pepper
10g
sugar/37.5g serving (26.7% by wt.)
Corporate
Info:
(Altered from 4/21/12) Madécasse has one of those interesting
progressive-chocolate-company stories: The American founders met as
Peace Corps volunteers in Madagascar and decided to not only grow
their cacao there (not unusual) but also process and package the
chocolate there to benefit the local community. The company claims to
be paying good wages and using sustainable farming practices, and has
impressed The New York Times and Fast Company (among others) with its
commitment and innovation. The bars are not officially labeled fair
trade or organic, but from what I read, the process is essentially a
variation on both of those complicated labels. Madécasse—the name is apparently old French for Madagascar—produces a relatively small selection of plain chocolate and bars flavored with
Madagascar-sourced inclusions like coffee and spices.
This
Bar: Today
I'm following last week's pink peppercorn and combava bar with
another pepper combination, this time in 70% cacao: black pepper,
pink pepper again, and tsiperifery pepper (or, from what I'm seeing
online, Voatsiperifery). The last seems to be a Madagascar native,
and I'm mostly just finding it on commercial sites, described by one
as “pungent . . . earthy and woody . . . a wee bit sweet . . .
distinct fragrance . . . citrus notes . . . long lasting and without
rage.” Neat.
Appearance:
Glossy, vivid chestnut brown.
Smell:
Not strong, beany, with a hint of black pepper
Taste:
Waxy texture followed by low- to mid-volume, integrated, very complex
pepper flavor, from classic black pepper to more tingly, herby,
“green” flavors to dried, woodsy, “brown” flavors. The flavor
of the chocolate itself is raw and beany (as opposed to smooth,
creamy, roasted, etc), which makes the whole experience very earthy.
The flavor is a bit of a contrast with the waxy texture, and now that
I think of it, I think that the texture, along with the low-medium
volume of the pepper, keeps this bar from being overwhelmingly earthy
(it un-grounds
it, heh).
Often
I eat a bar and struggle to figure out what to say about it—“it
tastes like chocolate”—so it's always a fun to encounter one that
gives me food for thought, as it were. Do I absolutely love this? I
dunno. But I like the thought behind it, and the thoughts that arise
when I eat it.
Conclusion:
Madécasse Exotic Pepper is earthy and complex but not overwhelming,
and it offers a lot to ponder.
at
12:00 AM
Labels:
70% cacao,
fair/direct trade etc.,
great companies,
Madagascar,
Madécasse,
organic,
spices
Saturday, April 21, 2012
Madécasse Pink Pepper & Citrus
2.64oz
(75g) bar
Ingredients:
Cocoa beans, sugar, cocoa butter, soy lecithin, vanilla, pink pepper,
combava
13g
sugar/37.5g serving (34.7% by wt.)
Corporate
Info:
(Altered from 12/3/11) Madécasse has one of those interesting
progressive-chocolate-company stories: The American founders met as
Peace Corps volunteers in Madagascar and decided to not only grow
their cacao there (not unusual) but also process and package the
chocolate there to benefit the local community. The company claims to
be paying good wages and using sustainable farming practices, and has
impressed The New York Times and Fast Company (among others) with its
commitment and innovation. The bars are not officially labeled fair
trade or organic, but from what I read, the process is essentially a
variation on both of those complicated labels. Madécasse produces a
relatively small selection of plain and flavored bars. As Emma
pointed out after my last Madécasse review, the company has changed
its labels since then—though I should note that, even a few months
later, I'm still seeing some of the old bars on store shelves among
the new ones, so you might find the old labels out there.
Today
I'm trying a really fun bar, a 63% cacao Pink Pepper & Citrus.
I've tried herby pink pepper before, in two bars I brought back from
Germany, but while those peppercorns were pressed into the chocolate
these are incorporated, so I'm curious if they will impart a
different experience. What's totally unfamiliar to me is the combava,
which turns out to be another name for kaffir lime, a fruit I only
know through the leaves (and apparently rind?) used in southeast
Asian cooking. I suspect Madécasse used “combava” because it
seems to be the preferred term in French, one of Madagascar's
official languages. (Similarly, Madécasse is apparently the old French name for Madagascar, I'm assuming having to do with its being
a one-time French colony.)
Appearance:
Like a normal chocolate bar, though I'm reviewing a 70% cacao
Madécasse bar next week and they actually have very different
finishes. Today's is fairly matte, with only a little gloss after I
wipe it a little, and the brown is quite light, almost washed-out
looking, whereas next week's only-somewhat-higher-cacao bar is a
significantly deeper, richer color. Hm.
Smell:
Not strong, though I'm getting a hint of the pink pepper's prickly
spice. No obvious citrus.
Taste:
Fun! The chocolate is foundational, maybe a little chalky and beany,
but not strong. Then a hit of citrus, and then the super-complex
pepper that's hard to describe, plus the flavors are well blended, in
that I don't taste three separate ingredients. There's some
medium-volume sourness that I think comes from both the combava and
the chocolate, because it's both sharp (like citrus) and beany (like
you'll taste in tart chocolates). Then there's that resiny, prickly,
herby flavor like cardamom and grass and nutmeg that I'm assuming
comes from the pink pepper, but since I don't know combava well, I
wonder if it contributes any of the fresh, green elements. As I said,
texture is a little chalky, and the pink pepper is totally
incorporated, whether finely ground or somehow steeped in the
chocolate.
Conclusion:
Super interesting, if you like
herby-spicy (and not super dark) chocolate.
at
12:00 AM
Labels:
60-69% cacao,
citrus,
fair/direct trade etc.,
great companies,
Madagascar,
Madécasse,
organic,
spices
Saturday, August 6, 2011
German Chocolate: Two Pink Peppercorn (Rosa Pfeffer) Bars
REWE Dark Chocolate 66% Cacao Pink Peppercorn (Rosa Pfeffer)
75g bar
Ingredients: cocoa mass, sugar [translated as either “cane sugar” or “sucrose”], cocoa butter, pink peppercorns
37.3% sugar by wt.
Leysieffer Dark Chocolate with Pink Peppercorns (Rosa Pfeffer)
100g bar
Ingredients: sugar, cocoa mass, cocoa butter, pink peppercorns, soy lecithin
The last two of my German chocolate bars share an inclusion uncommon in the U.S, pink peppercorns. Pink peppercorns come from two non-pepper plants from Central and South America, and while I've seen them here in spice shops and peppercorn mixes, for whatever reason they seem to be more popular in Germany. One of these bars was my first random chocolate buy, a funky flavored, inexpensive store brand from a big chain supermarket called REWE (“RAY-vuh”) that was near one of our hotels. Later, when I was selecting flavors at Leysieffer, I decided to buy one of their rosa pfeffer bars for comparison's sake. The REWE bar is 66% cacao, and the Leysieffer is their usual 55%.
Both bars mostly smell like chocolate, but they certainly taste like more! The REWE bar is thin, with crispy, slightly chewy peppercorns. The chocolate is pretty mild, of the creamy/chalky variety, and the peppercorns have a little pepperiness, but it's not strong—herby flavor, no bite. The Leysieffer chocolate is thicker, sweeter, and waxier, and its peppercorns have more spice and maybe more crunch to them as well. FYI, the shiny, crisp peppercorn skin doesn't really taste like anything; it's the crunchy little UFO-shaped seed inside that has the bitter, resiny flavor that feels like a super-light cousin of spicy black pepper or numbing Sichuan peppercorns.
For me, the REWE bar was kind of insipid, and the Leysieffer chocolate's sweetness didn't do anything for the herby peppercorns the way they did for elderflower and rose. Contrary to expectations, I ended up finding pink peppercorn chocolate boring, and I wonder if I wouldn't like this better with a darker chocolate and maybe a small amount of another type of peppercorn, upping the intensity of both chocolate and inclusion. For what it's worth, my co-taster thought the Leysieffer was pretty good.
Pink peppercorn + chocolate conclusion: For me, the mild chocolate and complex but relatively quiet pink peppercorn flavors just weren't enough, but I could see how others might like the combination.
[Note: I traveled with these and also moved them around a bit before opening them, so both the chocolate and peppercorns are more broken than when I first bought the bars.]
at
12:00 PM
Labels:
59% and under,
60-69% cacao,
chocolate travel,
Leysieffer,
spices
Saturday, July 23, 2011
German Chocolate: Leysieffer Cardamom Dark Chocolate (Kardamom Schokolade)
100g bar
Ingredients: [I forgot to write these down, but I believe they were just sugar, cocoa mass, cocoa butter, soy lecithin, and cardamom.]
Last week I introduced Leysieffer; today's question is about the combination of chocolate (in this case a mild, somewhat-dark chocolate) and cardamom. I usually associate cardamom with Indian curries, where their cool, spicy intensity is combined with a host of other spices, so I don't spend a lot of time with just cardamom. This should be interesting!
Here's a little background on cardamom: Cardamom is related to ginger, but the spice we use in cooking is a seed pod, not a root, so you won't notice any similarity aside from strong flavor. Two varietals are cultivated widely, one small and green and one bigger and brown. The oblong seed pod or ground seeds are used in many different types of preparations—food, drink, medicine—in India, the Middle East, other parts of Asia, and some Northern European countries (presumably a colonial remnant). I couldn't tell you which type is in this chocolate, but the picture on the front is of stylized brown seed pods.
So, cardamom in chocolate.... It smells great: bright and spicy. Here the cardamom is front and center, and the chocolate is more of a foundation, filling out the scent's complexity. The flavor is similar, not shying away from the cardamom at all, with the chocolate playing backup. I'm not sure I'd say cardamom's piney (wikipedia says “resinous”) flavor is a total natural with chocolate, but it's not a total mismatch, and to be fair I'm also not accustomed to cardamom as a standard sort of ingredient.
Cardamom + chocolate conclusion: For cardamom lovers and adventurous eaters.
at
12:00 PM
Labels:
59% and under,
chocolate travel,
Leysieffer,
spices
Thursday, June 9, 2011
Shaman Organic Chocolates 60% Cacao Dark Chocolate with Green Tea & Ginger
2oz (57g) bar
Ingredients: Organic sugar, o. chocolate liquor, o. cocoa butter, o. soy lecithin, o. vanilla, o. ginger, o. green tea
9g sugar/28.5g serving (31.6% by wt.)
I liked Shaman's 82% bar, but I didn't think the light flavor of the chocolate tasted as good down at 60% cacao in the açaí, lemon, and orange bar. Will it work better with bitter green tea and spicy ginger?
Corporate Info: (Copied from two weeks ago.) As of this writing Shaman's website is under construction, but the bar packaging explains that the point of the company is to support Mexico's indigenous Huichol people. I've found a lot of positive commentary on assorted unfamiliar-to-me websites and an A rating by the Better World Shopper; I hope this organic, fair trade chocolate's actual practices live up to the hype.
Appearance: Same red-brown and gloss as the other Shaman bars, with even more air bubbles.
Smell: Not a lot. Some of the same fresh, unripe smell as the 82%, but very muted. Not getting green tea or ginger per se.
Taste: Still sweet like the açaí, lemon, and orange bar, but with a more interesting flavor. Ginger is in a scattering of little crystallized pieces, which make the chewing texture gritty. I'm still not really getting green tea, but there is a little bitterness that counters the sweet, and I figure that's the tea. I wouldn't buy this again, but I like the taste more than the açaí, lemon, and orange bar, and others might like its sweetness.
Conclusion: Shaman Organic Chocolates 60% Cacao Dark Chocolate with Green Tea & Ginger is sweet, though the flavorings contribute some balance and complexity. All the same, I think Shaman's 60% bars are too sweet for my taste.
at
12:00 PM
Labels:
60-69% cacao,
fair/direct trade etc.,
ginger,
organic,
Shaman,
spices,
tea
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)
